first time I used a HexClad Hybrid Deep Sauté Pan, but got burned by the “Stay Cool” handle (more on that later). I oiled the pan as recommended by the manufacturer, cooked an egg, and it was mostly fine, but the egg stuck to the pan, which is advertised as “nonstick.” This caused some inconvenience, but ultimately led me to one conclusion: HexClad cookware is just okay. But the hybrid technology of stainless steel and nonstick cookware isn’t all that impressive, except for the negative aspects, so I should buy a good stainless steel frying pan and a good nonstick frying pan instead.
First impressions
Photo: Lauryn Strumpf
When testing gear, I have a rule for myself: come in with fresh eyes. That means avoiding other people’s opinions as much as possible — professional reviewers, friends, pets, etc. I was already skeptical of HexClad because of the marketing, but cooking with it reinforced my suspicions. Have you ever shopped on Amazon, selected gift wrapping, only to have it arrive in a weirdly cheap-looking cloth bag? That’s exactly what the HexClad pan was wrapped in when it arrived (inside the box). It’s a small thing, but it didn’t bother me. It reminded me of the time I stayed in a really nice hotel and realized the sheets had a 7 thread count and the toilet paper was clear. And then I started cooking with it. Cookware coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) or Teflon is generally considered safe, but it can be hazardous to your health if damaged or heated above 500 degrees Fahrenheit. I tried scraping the surface of the pan with a fork and it didn’t peel or scratch, which is a good thing. But on the other hand, because the pan has a hexagonal pattern on its inner surface, we’re not sure if it will find small scratches or chips as easily as a fully nonstick coated pan. You know what cookware doesn’t have these issues? Carbon steel and cast iron. You know what costs less than $179? Our favorite nonstick frying pan.
The $179 12-inch Hybrid Fry Pan is fine; it heats evenly and quickly, only slightly slower than the All-Clad it was compared to. Same goes for the $179 3.3-Quart Hybrid Deep Sauté Pan. But if it’s priced as well as the All-Clad that I (and many chefs) consider the standard, it should perform just as well, and in my experience, that wasn’t the case. During my month-long testing period, I cooked pasta, eggs, and steak on the stovetop, twice in each pan.
Photo: Lauryn Strumpf
