Fast fashion impacts the climate, exploits workers and creates huge amounts of textile waste

Fast fashion affects the climate, Exploiting workers and producing huge amounts of textile waste

Written by Paula M. Carbone & The Conversation US

The following essay is reproduced with permission. The Conversation is an online publication covering the latest research.

Fast fashion is everywhere: in nearly every mall, in the feeds of influencers on social media that encourage overconsumption, and in the ads that constantly pop up online.

Fast fashion focuses on the continuous production of new clothing and is characterized by the speedy cycles that give the concept its name. Fast fashion aims to quickly copy high-end designs, but the use of low-quality materials produces shoddy clothing that is meant to be worn once or twice and then thrown away. Masu.

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ZARA, one of the leading fast fashion companies, is on a mission to have clothes in stores 15 days after the first design. Another, Shein, adds up to 2,000 new items to its website every day.

While other companies in the fashion industry are working to develop more sustainable clothing, fast fashion is focused on profit. The market value in 2022 is estimated at approximately USD 100 billion and is growing rapidly. This is a big reason why global clothing production doubled between 2000 and 2014.

The big winners in this game are businesses. The industry is known for exploiting its workers, excessively polluting, and being extraordinarily wasteful. Consumers are being dragged into an unhealthy spiral of pressure to buy more because their cheap clothes quickly fall apart.

Fast fashion is also having an increasing impact on the global climate. It accounts for an estimated 8% to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, and emissions are expected to increase rapidly as the industry expands.

I teach a course that explores fast fashion and sustainability. Although the industry’s growth seems unstoppable, a combination of law and willpower may help curb growth.

understand the harm

Approximately 60% of fast fashion items are made from synthetic fibers derived from plastics and chemicals that originated as fossil fuels. When this synthetic clothing is washed or thrown into a landfill to decompose, microplastics can be released into the environment. Microplastics contain chemicals such as phthalates and bisphenol A that can affect human and animal health.

Natural fibers have a unique impact on the environment. Growing cotton requires a lot of water, and pesticides can run off from farmland into streams, rivers, and bays. Water is also used for chemical treatment and dyeing of textiles. A 2005 United Nations-led report on cotton water use found that one cotton T-shirt requires an average of about 700 gallons (2,650 liters) of water from crop to clothing rack; ) is estimated to be required. Used for irrigation.

Chemicals used in the fashion industry to process clothing fibers also contaminate wastewater with heavy metals such as cadmium and lead and toxic dyes. And that wastewater flows into waterways in many countries, impacting the environment and wildlife.

Mass production of fast fashion also creates literal mountains of waste. According to some estimates, more than 90 million tons of textile waste ends up in landfills around the world every year, where it slowly decomposes and increases greenhouse gases. Only a small percentage of discarded clothing is recycled.

From fashionista to environmental protector

In many cultures, people’s self-perceptions are closely tied to their fashion choices and reflect their culture and alliances.

The appeal of purchasing new items comes from a variety of sources. Influencers on social media influence FOMO (fear of missing out). Cheap products can also lead to impulse purchases.

Research shows that shopping can also cause euphoria. But the speed and marketing of fast fashion can also train consumers into “psychological obsolescence,” turning them off from purchases they once enjoyed and quickly replacing them with new ones.

Celebrities may be pushing back on this trend. Social media exploded when first lady Kate Middleton wore the outfit multiple times. The #30wearschallenge movement started with a small step: encouraging consumers to plan to wear every piece of clothing they purchase at least 30 times.

Upcycling (turning old clothing into new clothing), and purchasing sustainable, high-quality clothing that can be worn for years, is being promoted by the United Nations and other organizations, including fashion industry alliances.

Some influencers are promoting more sustainable fashion brands. Research shows that peer influence can be a powerful driver for making more sustainable choices. Fast fashion’s largest market is Generation Z, aged 12 to 27, many of whom are also concerned about climate change and may reconsider their purchases if they recognize the link between fast fashion and environmental damage. There is sex.

Some governments are taking steps to reduce waste from fashion and other consumer products. The European Union has created requirements to make clothing last longer and bans companies from throwing away unsold textiles and footwear. A bill has been introduced in France that, if passed, would ban fast fashion companies and their products from advertising, require them to list the environmental impact of their products, and impose fines for violations.

Changing consumer habits, new technology, and legislation can each help reduce the demand for unsustainable fashion. The cost of cheap clothes that have been worn several times will also be added. Next time you buy clothing, think about its long-term value to you and the planet.

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