In the past Over the last few years, sport climbing has become one of the fastest growing sports in the world.
This surge in popularity could be thanks not only to his appearance in the documentary, but also to superstars like Alex Honnold. Free Solo They now have several climbing shows in partnership with National Geographic. Maybe it’s because indoor gyms are now more easily accessible. Or maybe it’s because sport climbing is a safer way to scale a wall: rather than providing their own protective gear like traditional climbers, sport climbers fasten their ropes to pre-drilled, secured bolts.
The sport will make its Olympic debut at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, where climbers will compete in three different formats: speed, lead and bouldering. American climber Nathaniel Coleman won the gold medal in the men’s combined event at the Tokyo Olympics.
American Jesse Grupper will compete in Paris this August. Originally from Montclair, New Jersey, Grupper started climbing in indoor gyms at age 6. He has a degree in mechanical engineering from Tufts University and is currently a researcher at the Harvard Biodesign Institute, where he helped develop exoskeletons for stroke patients.
But Grupper made a big pivot away from academia when he went full-time as a professional athlete and began performing well in World Cup competitions. In 2023, he won gold medals in men’s combined lead and bouldering at the 2023 Pan American Games in Santiago, earning him a spot in the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. I met up with Jesse over Zoom on a sunny training day in Switzerland and asked him what he’s bringing to Paris.
What Jesse Grupper brings to the Olympics
JLab Audio Go Air Sports
Over Zoom, I peered at Grouper’s earbuds to see what he had: the JLab Go Air Sport, the top-ranked budget option in our Best Headphones for Workout guide, a sports version of the slightly more expensive 2020 Go Air (8/10, WIRED Recommended) that comes with secure ear hooks and a cover that closes over the top.
Considering the price, the build quality, Bluetooth connectivity, and sound quality are impressive. Plus, they come in a variety of fun colors. “They’re easy to fit and not too expensive,” Grupper says. “I’ve been using them for a while now and they haven’t broken yet, so I’m very happy.”
La Sportiva Solution
La Sportiva is an Italian company that has been making technical climbing apparel for almost 100 years. When choosing a closure system for your climbing shoes, a lace closure provides a better fit and a Velcro closure makes them easier to put on and take off. This solution combines the two with La Sportiva’s Fast Lacing system.
Like all footwear, finding the right climbing shoes can be tricky, especially for professional climbers who rely on precise footwork to get higher. “The shoe hits that sweet spot of being flexible enough to stand on volumes (a climbing term for large surfaces) but stiff enough to withstand small footholds,” says Grupper. “A lot of companies are working on making softer shoes for the indoor market, but I want a stiffer shoe for my quiver.”
Almaid
Over the past few months, Grupper has been bothered by a flexor tendon injury; earlier this year he had to take six weeks off to allow his hand to recover. He says it’s been stressful, but he’s staying positive as Paris approaches. “I don’t need to compare myself to anyone else, and I don’t want to, because I’m just trying to figure out where I am. I’m not in the best shape of my life and that could change next month, but I’m just trying to take it one day at a time.”
Armaid is a small, portable device that can massage trigger points—areas that are sensitive to small amounts of pressure that can cause pain or stiffness. Armaid consists of a nonslip base, a fixed arm, and an adjustable small arm with a small roller ball. “Put your forearm here and use pressure with your other hand to compress your forearm,” says Grupper, demonstrating. “The sprained tendon runs all the way down your forearm, so you can release it from the tension.” Armaid can also help with other overuse injuries, like tennis elbow, golfer’s elbow, and tendonitis.
Trango Horizon Harness
Most climbers don’t need that many features in their harness. Unless you’re taking part in a specific discipline like ice climbing or canyoning, or you have a certain body type (kids, for example, usually need child harnesses), you can simply choose a harness based on comfort. “Since you’re often sitting in the harness while training, comfort is the most important thing I look for in a harness,” says Grupper. He uses the Trango Horizon. “It has extra loops to secure things, it’s intuitive to use, and it’s a reliable and secure brand.” Full disclosure: Trango is one of Grupper’s sponsors and is the agency that arranged this interview.
Sterling Aerorope
During climbing, the rope is your best friend. It is the item that protects you from falling and hitting the ground. There are many different types of ropes, but for sport climbing you need one dynamic rope that stretches and becomes pliable as you fall. Thicker ropes are more durable, but harder to carry and manipulate into a draw. Also pay attention to the length of the rope. To descend safely, your climbing pitch should be half the length of the rope. So if you are climbing a 30 meter route, you need a 60 meter rope.
Grupper likes Sterling’s Aero Rope because, at 9.2 millimeters thick, it’s very thin and light compared to other ropes. The fibers are treated with what Sterling calls a Zeros process, which keeps them clean and dry and allows them to pass easily through rappels and belay devices. The rope also slides easily through the draws, so it doesn’t create unnecessary resistance. “The higher you climb, the more weight you can put on your harness,” he says. Sterling ropes are Bluesign certified, and the company has a recycling program for unwanted ropes. It’s a good option for people who don’t want to hook their own lugs on used ropes.
Nike Precool Ice Vest
“My equipment has changed quite a bit due to the climate change,” says Grupper. As with most outdoor sports, cooler temperatures are preferable. Grupper prefers climbing when temperatures are around 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, temperatures are expected to be much warmer in Paris this year, possibly reaching 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
When temperatures are high, most people stay safe by staying in temperature-controlled environments and not overexerting themselves. But that’s not an option for Olympic athletes, who are understandably concerned about the health risks of competing in high temperatures. A 2023 report found that 110 athletes suffered heatstroke during the Tokyo Olympics. This year’s figure could be even higher.
“Almost every competitor has their own personal fan, and many teams bring ice packs and coolers, and even though the venue is outdoors, the warm-up area itself sometimes has its own personal air conditioner,” Grupper says. “I think it’s fascinating to see the sport evolve to meet the demands of climate change.”
Luckily, most teams have their own cooling devices, but Grupper practices in an ice vest to get a feel for it. Nike created a special ice vest for Team USA for this year’s Olympics. It’s not an ice vest, but it does have four refreezable ice packs in the pockets for easy transport.
“Sometimes I splash water on my head before a competition,” Grupper says, “even though I’m not in the best shape, it’s something I have to do.”
Grupper will compete in the men’s bouldering and lead events at the Le Bourget climbing venue. The first semi-final will be held on August 5th and the men’s final on August 9th.
